Monday, June 29, 2009

Roma


It's somewhat surreal living in Rome, surrounded by thousands of years of history and a vibrant culture that never gets boring. Everywhere I look, the juxtaposition between archaic and modern is apparent. The Ara Pacis, an altar dating from before the birth of Christ, is enclosed in a beaming glass structure, the result of modern architectural minds. Walking down the street, I encounter row after row of cramped, though quaint, apartment buildings, which, with their bronzy earthen roof tiles, warm hues, and sturdy wooden shutters, look for all the world like the picture of urban life in another time. And, of course, in many cases, they are. The streets are narrow and crowded with scooters and smart cars, where a millenia or two ago there would have been only people and animals making their way to the market. With this in mind, I consider that the gnarled cobblestone streets remain a constant. In the Campo de Fiori tourists and locals mingle, perhaps stepping into a bar or enjoying a cappuccino on the steps of a 19th century statue. However, on weekday mornings this space is overtaken by fruit and vegetable vendors, selling their wares in much the same way as any public market operated in antiquity. Walking down a typical road near the center of town, I pass by a massive gelateria boasting 50 flavors, then, around the corner, the mammoth Pantheon appears, rising into view, monopolizing my attention entirely. On the steps of this engineering wonder, this massive time capsule, the buzz of the bustling metropolis and chaotic passage of time seems to momentarily cease. Until of course a flashbulb pops and a swarm of schoolchildren on a tour engulf my nostalgia. Oh well, back to the gelateria.

Top 5 Unexpected Surprises

5. Our apartment came with a microwave and dryer, amenities that we'd been told not to expect.

4. How much I enjoy a glass of wine with dinner. It'll be a little hard going back to the States and not being 21.

3. How friendly and helpful our professors are. They are knowledgeable and want to make this an awesome experience for everyone.

2. The grandeur of the Pantheon. Best building ever.

1. Pillow talk and bonding with the girls! Such good times we have in our apartment!

Top 5 Most Annoying Things about Rome

5. Heat/ Humidity--it was wasn't bad at all the first week, but the past couple days the temperature has been climbing. Now our long Art History walks are significantly less enjoyable because I get so sweaty. It's not unbearable yet but I suspect it will only get hotter.

4. Bugs--our apartment hasn't been infested yet but many of the other students have complained of bug bites. With leaving the windows open all the time due to the aforementioned heat, it's only a matter of time before the vermin visit us as well.

3. Not speaking the language--Playing the part of the ignorant tourist isn't very fun. I'm sure the shopkeepers are just as frustrated with us as we are with our oh-so-limited vocabulary.

2. Homework--Mona and Lisa have heaped on the reading for these classes. It's pretty much all we do when we're not eating, sleeping, or exploring the city.

1. The street musicians in the Campo--they know 4 songs, and repeat them endlessly. You can bet we know them by heart now as well.

Our Quaint Apartment--2nd Blog post from Facebook 6-26


It has been lots of fun living with 7 fabulous ladies in our Roma apartment. Our digs are right off the Campo, and super close to the UW Rome Center. While definitely not as chic as our lucky professor's pad next door, our accomodations are comfortable and have made this trip so much better. I am really glad we aren't living in a hotel or hostel, or even a homestay. As we have adjusted during this first week, though, we have encountered a few issues. The garbage man comes each day around 2 PM, at which time he buzzes our apartment to be let in. It took us a while to figure out where this obnoxious buzzing noise kept coming from and what we were supposed to do. Also, our hot water heater was broken for the first several days. Ice cold showers were NOT fun, even though it is warm here. But luckily we got an Italian plumber to fix it for us. Now we have hot water for our three bathrooms. Also, we got the password for our internet connection. It is painfully slow, especially when all eight of us are online checking facebook, but still better than having to visit the Rome Center everytime we wish to check our email. Another adventure was figuring out how to use the gas stove. We repeatedly turned on the gas, but couldn't figure out how to ignite the burners. There was no button to provide a spark, and none of us were very confident in our knowledge of archaic foreign stoves. We rounded up a couple of the UO guys from downstairs, but they were no help. No surprise. Then Maggie and Mayme ventured to the Drunken Ship, the neighborhood sketchy bar to scrounge up some matches from the unfriendly bartenders. With those matches we were finally able to cook a meal. Hurrah! And we didn't catch anything on fire, luckily, because I'm not sure there are any smoke detectors, and only one exit to this very very old building...Add to this a creepy cupboard, hidden balconies, dungeon-esque hallway, secret bathroom, and an unidentified loft, and you've got our authentic Italian home for the next four weeks. :)

First Actual Bloggish entry, from Facebook dated 6-22

The past few days have gone by so quickly. I arrived in Rome on Saturday night, but it already feels like I've been here for way longer than two days. Most of us from the UW stayed at a hostel near Termini station, called The Yellow Hostel. It was moderately priced, though not the cheapest of Eurpoean hostels, and comfortable enough. When we weren't sleeping in our bunk beds or exploring the city, we were on our laptops taking advantage of the wifi next door in the bar. This morning we all made the trek across town to the UW Rome Center, which is off of the Campo de Fiori. Lugging a 50 lb suitcase on a crowded bus and up several flights of stairs was an exhausting experience, but we finally made it to the UWRC and were given the keys to our apartments. Eight of us girls are staying in an excellent apartment just around the corner from the Rome Center, directly off of the Campo. We go in a giant wooden door, then through a squeaky gate and up several flights of stairs to get to our apartment. There are three bedrooms with nine total beds, and three bathrooms. One bathroom is at the end of a narrow hallway near the front door that we didn't discover immediately, but it is spacious and even has a small balcony. The apartment's decor is pretty dated but it is big enough to satisfy us, and you absolutely can't beat the convenience of being so close to the action. Several of the other students are housed in apartments that are more than 15 minutes away from the UWRC. During the day we explored the Campo, which is a bustling market during the day and, apparently, an even busier party scene at night. I bought a delicious sandwich from the Forno, a bakery nearby. We also found a grocery store to stock up on items for the apartment, like soap, and some basic food. However, some things there are very expensive--a box of cereal goes for more than 3 euro. This evening our entire group met and were treated to a delicious (and FREE) dinner at Tratoria Moderna. They spoiled us with four courses...we were there for 2 1/2 hours! The appetisers, pasta, veal, and tiramisu were great, and we were all completely stuffed by the time we left. I could get used to this!

Top 5 Funniest Anecdotes and Inside Jokes to date

5. Little old waiters who flirt with us at restaurants, like the one who wrong-shoulder-tapped me the other night.

4. Aaron's exceedingly heavy backpack full of unnecessary booze he brought with us to the Spanish Steps one night.

3. Mona, our professor, being accidentally locked inside our classroom when a gust of wind blew the door shut. Ironically this has been a common theme. Not only does the door to the classroom not have a handle on the inside, but one of the bedroom doors in our apartment chronically slams and sticks. You have to lower your shoulder and ram it to unstick the door.

2. Mayme's anti-rapist alarm. The noise is super loud and Maggie can be frightened by the mere mention of it. Practical jokes are in the works.

1. Maggie's feet being stained from her new black shoes, and her resulting nickname: Maggie Blackfoot.

Top 5 Staples of Michelle's Italian Diet

5. Cheese-- It's no secret that I love cheese. So, one of the first things I bought at the supermarket was a block of asiago cheese. It makes for great grilled cheese sandwiches...which I've been known to eat for all meals of the day. This plan is much cheaper than eating out all the time.

4. Wine-- I'm in Italy. Vino=life

3. Bread-- from the Forno! Or the tiny toast I bought at the supermarket. Again, grilled cheese requires bread. Bonus: it's super cheap

2. Cappuccino-- cheap, quick. Drink it at the counter like a local. And NEVER "portare via," or "to go." This ain't Starbucks.

1. Pasta--duh.

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Top 5 Reasons to Visit the Forno

5. It's a mere hundred yards from the Rome Center

4. It's versatile: pizza, bread, pastry, sweets, and sandwiches all in one

3. It's economical: a big roll for only 44 cents!

2. It reopens at 4:45 with fresh bread...just around the time late afternoon snack hunger is kicking in

1. Pizza Bianca. Nuf said.

The Forno bakery in the Campo de Fiori is one of the best places to get some bread. They have bread, lots of bread. Need I say more? There's no shame in going multiple times a day.

Top 5 Gelato Flavors to date

5. Stracciatella (chocolate chip)

4. Green apple (mela verde)

3. Caffe

2. Pink grapefruit (Pompelmo Rosa)

1. Dark chocolate!!


I dug deep and tried to expand my gelato horizons by tasting the fruity ones as well as my creamy favorites. Green apple was mild and tasty, while grapefruit was super tangy and delicious, if you're in the mood for something refreshing and love love love grapefruit, like I do. However, the dark chocolate at Giolotti near the Pantheon wins out so far. Mmmm!

Top 5 Ways to Die in Rome

5. Being run over by a scooter

4. The hand of Amanda Knox (go huskies!)

3. Heart attack--after eating filetti de baccala (ultra fatty fried fish)

2. Drowning in the Trevi Fountain after a misguided attempt to swim across. Or, being weighed down and dumped in a fountain, a la Angels and Demons

1. Second-hand smoke!


Everybody smokes everywhere, which is not unbearable but gets to be pretty annoying when you're sharing a table at a restaurant and the person sitting eight inches from you lights up. So far I've avoided scooters and fire, even if our gas stove is a little sketchy!